A cockle-warming beverage

December 2024

By Jean Kerr

I have never spent Christmas aboard a boat. That doesn’t mean I haven’t dreamed of it. Festive lights in the rigging, a tiny tree, lashed somehow or other. I did manage to be aboard late enough in the season once that there was heavy frost on the cabin top and cockpit seats in the morning, but that was only mid-November, anchored up into Great Bay in New Hampshire.

Other cold weather sails have called for warming drinks and a fire in the coal stove at anchor, hands wrapped around a hot mug and smell of spices wafting up. Nowhere are cockle-warming beverages more welcome than on the winter water in New England.

This isn’t to suggest a tropical sort of holiday celebration wouldn’t be welcome. Indeed, it’s one of my retirement dreams (should I ever actually do that.) Palm trees swaying, rum punch in hand . . . but back to colder climes.

According to the usual online sources, the tradition of wassail (as in “here we come a wassailing”) dates back to the last millennium, and was a holdover from pagan times. There was a strategic segue by early Christians from celebrating holidays like Samhain and Beltane, into holidays like Christmas and Easter, realizing (as the Puritans did not) that it’s a bad idea to take away people’s parties. The original purpose of the rite was to bless – or sacrifice to – the apple trees that would bring forth the next harvest, and with it the fruit and the cider. The word wassail evolved from a greeting meaning “be fortunate” or “be healthy.”

Wassail isn’t far from one of our favorite cold-weather boat drinks, that we lovingly referred to as an Apple Falldown. (I’ll have you know that we never actually fell down.) It was just simmered cider, a few whole cloves, a stick of cinnamon and of course, rum. Personally, a white rum, no matter the quality, doesn’t really cut it. It needs to be dark, or at least gold rum, suggesting the comforting aroma of molasses.

Other favorites include:

• Chocolate Mint Ship
• Hot cocoa with a splash of chocolate liqueur and a shot of schnapps
• Hot Toddy
• Whiskey or brandy with lemon juice and honey (to taste)
• Hot Buttered Rum
• Muddled butter, brown sugar and spices with rum and boiling water added

Wishing you fair, if chilly, winds – and your wassail too! Sending you a Happy New Year!

Jean Kerr is the author of four cookbooks, including, “Mystic Seafood” and “Maine Windjammer Cooking.” She is the former editor of “Northeast Flavor” magazine and a regular contributor to “Cruising World.”

Wassail

This recipe comes from one of my often-visited food websites called “Tastes Better from Scratch.” Thanks for this and “be fortunate!”

INGREDIENTS

• 2 apples
• 8 cups apple cider
• 2 cups orange juice
• 1/3 cup lemon juice
• 4 cinnamon sticks
• 15 whole whole cloves, or 1⁄2 tsp ground cloves 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1 tablespoon light brown sugar, optional

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Poke the whole cloves into the apples on all sides.

2. Add all of the ingredients, including the apples, to a large pot over medium low heat.

3. Bring to a simmer. Simmer for 30-45 minutes.

4. Remove the apples and whole cloves. Ladle into mugs and enjoy!

 

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