El Chorro Nov ’24: Kings of the Blue Line Blues

After organising a very successful trip to El Chorro last year, El Dan organised a second instalment. He was joined by four companions of last year’s crew (Sam, Bryan, Derek, Ewart) and by three El Chorro novices (Romanian Dan M, PCM Dave, Dutch Charley).

FRIDAY (Day 1) - Travel & Olive Branch Guesthouse
The wrinkles of last years logistics were ironed out. The travel to Málaga was smooth (although PCM Dave faffed at the check-in), and while there was some waiting time to collect two rental cars for drivers Derek and Dan, we took this opportunity to enjoy the first round of Spanish tapas.

Given the good experiences of last year, again accommodation was booked at the Olive Branch gueshouse, which is conveniently close to the crags. Main features are the convenience of English-speaking hosts, and two 4-bunk rooms plus our own lounge area and kitchen. Further, there is a communal area with a pool table and darts board, as well as a well-stocked fridge with self-service and a honesty system. The place hosts a community of climbers that are there for short visits like us, as well as climbers that stay for months and keep the place running by volunteering. They move around mugs from one room to the other and back again, unhinge doors, and run the kitchen. There was a very relaxed atmosphere, and sometimes a bit too relaxed, as the chef appeared to have overslept for preparing our breakfast on Saturday.

SATURDAY (Day 2): Single-Pitch Clims at Suiza and Valle de Abdalajis
Fortunately, that Saturday we were not in a rush, as we planned to sample some single-pitch routes to get to know the local limestone and get used to the heat of the sun. Derek, Ewart, Dave and Charley ventured for a 50 minute walk from the Olive Branch to Suiza, which is a section of the Arab Steps, while Dan S, Dan M, Sam and Bryan took a short drive to Valle de Abdalajis, an area comprising 4 crags with some iconic routes. Dave & Charley particularly enjoyed Tira-mi-su, a 5A route that felt easier than the 4C's next to it, while Derek & Ewart appeared to like the 5A Kiwi that was a bit higher in the grade.

All teams finished climbing at a civilised hour, which enabled some expeditions into supermarkets and restaurants. Obligatory open-ended discussions were had on the translation between indoor and outdoor grades. The only agreement was on the outstanding quality of El Chorro’s limestone. At the end of the trip, its excellent grip was testified by the wear and tear of both the rubber of our shoes and the skin on our hands.

SUNDAY (Day 3) Four Teams on Three-Sixty
Dave and Charley’s objective was to climb the 6-pitch Three-Sixty at Corral East: a low-grade adventurous route with lots of variety in climbing/scrambling and with a rewarding 360 panoramic view at the summit, which is descended using a 30m abseil. Derek& Ewart decided to join as they missed out on this route in the previous El Chorro trip. That year, Sam & Bryan enjoyed Three-Sixty so much, they wanted to do it again. So did El Dan, who partnered up with Dan M, for Dan M’s first multipitch climb ever!
Thus, four teams went up the Three-Sixty. The climb was truly fantastic, and last year's trip report includes an accurate description. In contrast to last year’s bleak lunch sandwiches, this time Dan M prepared Romanian Sandwiches that did do justice to the quality of the Three-Sixty.

MONDAY (Day 4): Adventures on the Arab Steps

As Dave and Charley had completed their Three-Sixty objective, and other multi-pitches were a notch harder than the single pitches they had tried out so far, we decided to explore more single pitches on the Arab steps, and were joined by the two Dans. We started at the eastmost crag, Serena, where we particularly enjoyed El clavo dulce (4B). From there, we made our way west towards Suiza, where the Blue Line is located. During the pleasant walk in the shade through woodlands we were impressed by the flock of at least 15 vultures that were circling above the Blue Line, where Ewart & Derek and Sam & Bryan were climbing.

The Blue Line is an imposing 12-pitch climb that starts off fairly easy with 6 pitches in the grade 4 range, but is followed by sustained climbing on consecutive 5C, 5B, 5C and 5C pitches and a 4A and 4C finish. It was attempted last year by Ewart & Derek, who due to a late start were only able to reach halfway before they ran out of daylight. All acknowledged the route would be more than testing and might call for a bail-out abseil half-way up just like last year. As put by Dave C: “I will eat my own arse if Derek & Ewart will manage to complete the Blue Line”.

One of the issues D&E had last year on this climb was caused by difficulties in route finding. The belay points are easily missed, and the vicinity of the bolts of two adjacent routes can easily lure you off route into 6A+ territory. This year, after an early start Sam & Bryan found themselves ascending (and descending) both of the adjacent routes. In the process, they were taken over by D&E, who seemed to have no navigational issues thanks to being well-rested after their lie in. Nevertheless, B&S refound the route and by mid-day Bryan had just lead the first 5C pitch, while 2 pitches above them D&E were completing the second 5C pitch.

All in all, both team were making good progress and they seemed in a good place to finish the Blue Line at a civilised time. Sam made a good start on his 5B pitch, but after clipping the first couple of bolts he had to make an awkward rockover move that unexpectedly caused an old knee injury to resurface. Unable to proceed his climb, or to descend from it, he set a secure anchor while Bryan (and independently D&E, who were alarmed by the rowdy shenanigans below them) called the services to assist them off the crag. As this all happened, Charley, Dave and the Dan's ignorantly and leisurely walked through the woods in the valley, gazing at the flock of vultures circling above the Blue Line...

Thankfully, not much later Sam & Bryan were safely extracted from the crag, during which D&E had no other option but to recontinue the last three pitches of the Blue Line.

TUESDAY (Day 5): Rocabella and Return Home
It was time to pack our bags and spend our morning and afternoon as best as we could before our evening-flight back to York. Battered Sam wanted to spend the day playing with blue tape, but was convinced by the Dans and Ewart to go for a coffee in Málaga instead. Derek teamed up with Bryan, and joined Dave & Charley for some last single-pitch routes on Rocabella, a previously unexplored crag on a 10 minutes walk from a nearby car park. The crag offered excellent routes on a wide range of grades. It is one of the few north-facing walls protected from direct sunlight, and has cracks and top-outs that offer breath-taking views to the southern valleys and mountains. Rocabella confirmed El Chorro has not just left unfinished business on Blue Line for Sam & Bryan, but has also has left a lot to be explored for the club… perhaps next year?!

Thanks to all for a super trip with excellent food, excellent climbing, and a lot of fun and laughter!