This American Single Malt Is a Great Buy for Sherry Fans

13.11.2024 02:13

Although still nowhere near as big as bourbon, American single malt whiskey continues to grow in popularity. But the long-awaited hope that the category will finally get a legal definition remains unrealized as yet.

A few years ago, the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB, the governmental organization that regulates alcohol) proposed a standard of identity that many producers were pushing for: American single malt has to be produced and aged at one distillery in the U.S., made from a mash bill of 100 percent malted barley, distilled to a maximum of 160 proof, matured in oak barrels, and without added color or flavoring.

Those guidelines have still not been codified, but that could change sometime soon. In the meantime, foundational single malt distilleries like Westland in Seattle continue to release some truly excellent whiskeys, particularly in the Outpost Range.

The latest release is the ninth edition of its Garryana American single malt, a series of whiskeys released annually that are partially aged in Quercus garryana, a type of oak that is native to the Pacific Northwest. The point is to show the effects of terroir, or provenance as the distillery terms it, on the whiskey by using barrels made from this type of oak.

Just 6,600 bottles of the new Garryana Edition 9 are being released.

Courtesy Image

Like last year’s release, sherry casks were used to mature the whiskey. But for the first time, oloroso sherry butts were used instead of sweeter Pedro Ximenez. The whiskey was made from a mash bill of Washington select pale malt, Munich malt, extra special malt, pale chocolate malt, and brown malt. It was aged for a minimum of 60 months in virgin garryana oak casks, first-fill ex-bourbon barrels, and first-fill ex-Oloroso sherry casks.

“Garryana Edition 9 contrasts and comments on its predecessor,” said Westland master blender Shane Armstrong in a statement. “Full-term Oloroso butts were used, and they draw an entirely different portrait than the PX of past versions. The dry and oxidized style of Oloroso shows up in a nuanced savory aspect, providing an accentuating conduit for Garry Oak’s direct current. This combination is a first for us, and based on how this shaped up, it won’t be the last.”

It's indeed a vibrant and tasty whiskey, but like last year’s release, the sherry cask influence dominates the palate. That's not a bad thing, but I would argue that perhaps it overshadows the effect of the garryana oak on the whiskey, which after all is the whole point of this particular series.

There are rich notes of chocolate, raisin, fig, lemon, cocoa powder, espresso bean, apple, and a dash of vanilla on the palate. At 100 proof there’s a welcome bit of heat on the finish. Just 6,600 bottles of the new Garryana Edition 9 are being released with a suggested retail price of $150, which you can either purchase online from the Westland website starting November 11 or from retailers around the country starting November 15.