Black-Tie Timepieces: Breguet Unveils Classique 5177 & 7787 in Platinum with Grand Feu Enamel Dials

Demonstrating its technical and artisanal prowess, Breguet this fall unveils the Classique 5177 & 7787 with Grand-Feu enamel dials. Through its distinguished models, the collection as a whole works to embody the highest precision and refined aesthetics. It honors the legacy of the brand’s founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, who paid equal attention to the dials of his exquisite timepieces as to the intricate movements within. His design has always served readability, leading to the creation of many elements and surface finishes that are still in use today. These include Breguet hands with open-tipped pomme design, the iconic fluted case band, intricate guilloché patterns on sections of the dials to distinguish functions, and the use of enamel.

Beauty Born from Fire

Grand Feu enamel, a decorative material created from a powder of various minerals and metal oxides combined with a binder, is applied to the dial and then fired at temperatures between 800 and 1,200 °C. This technique requires masterful craftsmanship, as the material can be unpredictable and volatile, much like the flames in the oven. Depending on the number of enamel layers, multiple firing processes are needed to fuse the elements and pigments, creating optical depth and an enduring luster. Each firing carries significant risks, leading to high rejection rates, yet the outcome justifies the effort, as enamel dials maintain their beauty for centuries.

Simplicity at Its Finest

The new Classique models feature smooth, even dials covered in intense black Grand-Feu enamel, one of the most challenging shades to achieve. These dials are adorned with Arabic Breguet numerals and a discreet minute scale in a fine silver tone, offering a subtle contrast. This is echoed by rhodium-plated Breguet hands for hours, minutes, and seconds.

The Classique 5177 focuses on essential time displays, complemented by a subtly colored date window at 3 o’clock. In contrast, the Classique 7787 adds two additional complications. Here, the deep black backdrop showcases a power reserve indicator and a meticulously crafted moon phase display, with the moon represented in hammered gold against a dark blue starry sky.

Platinum: The Metal of Kings

The Classique 5177 and Classique 7787 are clad in latinum, known as the “metal of kings.” While discovered in the Americas around 400 years ago, it only gained popularity in Europe in the late 18th century, gradually entering the world of watchmaking. The Classique 7787 measures 39 mm in diameter, while the Classique 5177 is slightly smaller at 38 mm, both exhibiting a slim profile of 10.3 mm and 8.8 mm, respectively, enhancing their elegance.

Two High-End Self-winding Calibers

As with every Breguet watch, the outer aesthetics reflect the perfection of the mechanical movements within. The Classique 5177 and Classique 7787 are powered by a sophisticated automatic movement duo, visible through their sapphire crystal case backs.

Caliber 777 Q for the Classique 5177

Operating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, this movement consists of 237 components and features a flat silicon balance spring that resists wear, corrosion, and magnetic fields—materials used by Montres Breguet since 2006. Its rhodium-plated 18-carat gold oscillating weight showcases a hand-guillochéd “star mosaic” motif, complementing the engraved inscription “BREGUET EDITION SPECIALE.” It provides a single mainspring with a power reserve of 55 hours when fully wound.

Caliber 591 DRL for the Classique 7787

This movement operates at 4 Hz, composed of 221 components, and offers a 38-hour power reserve when fully wound. Its rhodium-plated 22-carat gold oscillating weight features hand-crafted “barleycorn” guilloché. The moon phase disc is enhanced with a mechanism that allows for a precise cycle display based on 29.5303498 days, much closer to the actual lunar cycle of 29.53058888 days. As a result, the display deviates by just one day every 348.7 years.

The Authenticity of the Old Master

Notably, both new models bear a hidden signature—an historical feature reminiscent of A.-L. Breguet’s timepieces. The signature appears to the right of center on the 7787 and between the center and 6 o’clock on the 5177.

Both models are attached to a black alligator leather strap. The Classique 5177 is priced at $39,800 and the Classique 7787 at $$47,400.

To learn more, visit Breguet, here.