Do Pimple Patches Really Work? Tell Me Everything.
Read this before you stick anything on your face.
The “Tell Me Everything” series is a spinoff of “Ask a Beauty Editor,” designed to tackle the big, sometimes complicated beauty topics you’re most interested in. I’ll share the latest reporting in these explainers and update them when there’s new research or breakthroughs (or related questions) that warrant it. —Jennifer G. Sullivan
Pimple patches have gotten so popular that many people keep a wardrobe of styles on hand. But not all pimple patches are the same: There are the basic acne patches for nighttime healing, cute zit stickers for day, dots infused with anti-acne medication (multiple types!), pimple patches with microdarts, and even the DIY kind you make with hydrocolloid tape. They all work similarly, and they make dealing with blemishes — well, not fun, exactly, but at least less annoying. Hadley King, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, says she especially loves to see people wearing the colorful sticker versions: “I see it as self-empowerment — embracing that acne is normal and not something that has to be hidden under a thick layer of concealer.”
But empowered people still have questions. Like, how do pimple patches work, exactly? And, while we’re at it, do acne patches work … for everyone? Read on for the truth about pimple stickers.
How do pimple patches work?
Pimple patches are basically small versions of hydrocolloid dressing. The stickers first started appearing in the United States in the early 2010s, but the dressing has been around much longer, says Omer Ibrahim, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Chicago Cosmetic Surgery and Dermatology. “It was first developed in the 1930s by a dentist,” he explains. “Then, in the 1960s, it was discovered to work well for wound care.” (It keeps the area underneath the dressing moist, which helps to reduce inflammation and may speed healing time a bit.) Today’s hydrocolloid pimple patches typically have a semi-breathable backing layer as well as adhesive to keep them in place. “While stuck to the skin, acne patches also have the added benefit of preventing you from picking or trying to pop the pimple, which is good because picking a pimple increases inflammation and healing time, and increases your risk for infection, discoloration, and scarring,” King says.
If you’ve ever used a pimple patch, you’ve probably noticed that when you pull it off, the underside is covered with a sticky substance — sometimes a disturbingly large amount. It may look gross, but that’s not all purulent matter from the pimple. “The hydrocolloid sheet works by absorbing excess fluid, and this pulls oil and dirt away from the pimple,” says King. Then, the polymers on the underside of the hydrocolloid patch mix with those impurities to form the gel that you’re seeing.
Do acne patches work on pimples?
Depends on the type of pimple. Acne patches are best for superficial pimples that are coming to the surface or have just come to a head (King describes these as “small whiteheads or pustules”).
Do pimple patches work on cystic acne?
No. They’re not going to do anything for cystic pimples, which are those larger, tender blemishes that don’t necessarily form a blackhead or whitehead. “If you are experiencing this kind of acne, see your dermatologist, who can help with intralesional cortisone injections and prescription medications,” King says.
Can pimple patches prevent future pimples?
If only! Sadly, acne pimples don’t prevent future breakouts; they just “speed up the healing of existing blemishes,” according to Ibrahim. That said, some pimple patches are now laced with ingredients (think: salicylic acid) that may help to prevent pimples in the future,. But obviously those actives only work on the small areas where you apply the patches.
What are the best pimple patches?
If you’re new to the sticker game, and you only get one or two occasional pimples, go for small patches that don’t feature any potentially irritating active ingredients and see how they work for you. Our personal favorites are the Hero Mini Invisible patches, because you can wear them during the day and no one will notice. (We even put makeup over them.) But, why not use the cute ones (like the Starface Party Pack, $10.99) for day time? And then do a simple version, such as the ones from Good Molecules, while you sleep. You can also make your own patches by purchasing large hydrocolloid sheets, like these, and cutting them into smaller pieces that fit over your pimples. (Just know that silicone tape is not the same as hydrocolloid tape, so keep that in mind when you’re shopping.)
Hero Cosmetics Mighty Patch Mini Invisible+ Patches
Starface Hydro-Stars Party Pack - 96 Count
Good Molecules Pimple Patches
Best pimple patches if you get blemishes regularly
If this is the case try a patch that’s laced with anti-acne and/or soothing ingredients. For skin with frequent clogged pores, consider stickers with salicylic acid. “Salicylic acid is an excellent pore-clearing ingredient because it exfoliates the surface of the skin and penetrates into pores to remove oil,” King says. She suggests the ZitSticka Killa Acne Extra Strength Microdart Patches, $16, which have tiny micro-darts on their undersides, and deliver salicylic acid, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid. “Niacinamide is helpful for tone and texture, and hyaluronic acid is a great humectant, so it can help hydrate the skin, which is particularly important in the context of salicylic acid, which—although helpful—can be drying,” King says. “The microdart technology helps the ingredients penetrate a little deeper into the skin.” She also recommends Peace Out Acne Healing Dots, $19, with salicylic acid and soothing aloe vera.
Zitsticka KILLA ACNE Extra Strength Microdart Patches
Peace Out Salicylic Acid Acne Healing Dots
Best pimple patches for oily, acne-prone skin
If this is the case patches with an antibacterial ingredient like benzoyl peroxide (BPO) or tea tree oil are beneficial. “They’re similar in that both tea tree oil and benzoyl peroxide have antibacterial properties, which can make them helpful for treating acne,” says King. She notes that there’s a study showing tea tree oil may be less irritating than benzoyl peroxide, but that BPO is more potent, so it probably works faster.
Best pimple patches for dry and sensitive skin
Look for patches with centella asiatica, aka “cica,” such as the Purito Seoul Wonder Releaf Centella Spot Patches, $12.99. The plant extract isn’t antibacterial like BPO, tea tree oil, or other common pimple patch ingredients like calendula, but it reduces inflammation, assists with healing, helps to stimulate collagen formation, and has moisturizing properties. “I think it’s a useful ingredient for dry skin, recovering from breakouts, irritation, and for anti-aging,” says King.
PURITO SEOUL Wonder Releaf Centella Spot Patch
Still not sure what pimple patch to get? Consider a box with multiple types.
Patchology (a brand Ibrahim recommends) makes The Breakout Box, $20, with 24 simple hydrocolloid dots as well as 24 medicated ones that contain salicylic acid (the kit also comes with three nose-strips for treating blackheads).
Patchology Breakout Box Blemish Treatment
Will pimple patches irritate my skin?
Simple hydrocolloid stickers are generally safe for all skin types and tones, says Ibrahim. But try not to leave them on for more than eight hours at a time. “It’s best to replace them at the four-to-six-hour mark,” he says. You may also have irritation issues with a pimple sticker if it contains an active ingredient (see examples above) that your skin doesn’t tolerate well.
What are those cute star pimple patches?
Justin Bieber and others have worn star pimple patches from Starface. Personally, I try not to be seduced by branding, but those plain, store-brand hydrocolloid patches just don’t deliver the smile-factor, so I use these myself. After all, anything that can help to reduce the psychological impact of acne, even just for a second, has got to be a good thing.
Starface Hydro-Stars Starter Pack (32-Count)
These are Justin Bieber’s favorite!
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