Changes to Sailing the Med: How Ionian Marinas are Developing
With two new marinas on Lefkas alone, and several developments planned for the surrounding islands, Tom Fletcher looks at the future of the ever-popular cruising area…
As the Ionian goes from strength to strength as a cruising area, it is only natural that it must change with the times. Many long-term visitors and residents wish that it would stay the same as it was when they first came and retain its off the beaten track charms. However, the volume of tourism and yachts are increasing, and the region must adapt to continue to offer an attractive cruising area.
New developments and new marinas should go ahead. They will irrevocably change the areas they are situated in, but they will also help conserve nearby locations by accommodating a huge volume of boats in a well-designed modern way. They will take some of the load off the smaller harbours and bays. One marina will have a large catchment, leaving the rest of the area to a more natural future.
That does not have to mean losing the spirit of the past Ionian though. The charm of quiet fishing harbours and quiet anchorages ought to be protected. But the increasing volume of tourism is a hard problem to solve and is being played out in numerous locations across the world. The only responsible thing to do is to embrace progress and to try to guide it in a positive, sensitive direction. It is pointless to hide one’s head in the past and hope that change will pass us by.
The major concern is the environment. Whilst we all like to believe that sailing is an ecologically friendly activity, this is not always the case. The sheer volume of boats has a marked effect on our surroundings, and on wildlife. Ecological damage to the area from the constant use of anchors, holding tanks emptying black water into the sea due to a lack of pump out stations, pollution from engines and from service industries… the list goes on.
Responsible sailors and charter companies, like Sail Ionian, now rely heavily on solar power, reducing the use of generators. Electric outboards are also a major step forward. We try to improve every year, organising beach clean-ups, providing eco-friendly detergents on board the yachts and pushing new developments in green technology. We have been trying for years to find a cost-effective filtration system for the yachts’ water tanks to reduce the purchase of bottled water!
For the local municipalities, providing new facilities is a key contribution to improve standards. Marinas with modern facilities have a raft of benefits to the environment and to the local population. Collection points for waste oils, proper sewage disposal and adherence to many EU standards benefit residents as well as visiting sailors. To maintain that these developments are not wanted and will destroy the charm of the area is churlish and short-sighted.
As visitors to the Ionian, we must understand that this region, and Greece as a whole, is only just coming out of a major recession. The priority must be on a sustainable, profitable future for the region. Developers need to be held to account in this respect. Infrastructure must be invested in by the government, so that the islands can cope with the volume of visitors they receive.
Recently completed projects on Lefkada include the marina in Vassiliki and a new yacht harbour in Nydri. Unfortunately, neither is operational yet due to legal paperwork – a constant plague in Greece. The 100-berth marina in Vassiliki, which includes a substantial breakwater and new ferry quay has been held up by legal wranglings for 2 or 3 years now. When it finally opens, it will provide a much-needed facility convenient for Lefkada, northern Kefalonia, and Ithaca. The impact on the town will be beneficial, with new business and employment to support the boats and business the ferry brings.
Nydri’s smaller 70-berth harbour should also start operating soon and will hopefully open the town to sailors. Previously the main town quay has always been taken over by large day-trip boats, leaving little space for visiting yachts. It was also badly exposed to swell and winds from the east which the new breakwater will provide shelter from.
The mainland has its share of planned developments too, with a 400-berth marina planned for the area just to the north of the existing harbour in Palairos. There is also a large luxury hotel planned close by, near the beach of Varko. How many of these planned developments will come to fruition remains to be seen, as funding and legislation can be unpredictable.
Grand plans in Mediterranean: New Ionian marinas
One of the most contentious of the proposed developments is in Vliho Bay, Sail Ionian’s home. For many years now, a large marina has been slated for the south end of the bay. Recently, progress seems to have been made, with visits by various ministers and the publication of a 500+ page report and various architect’s drawings. The study goes into considerable detail about the environmental impact on the local area.
This marina is planned to accommodate over 800 berths, making it far bigger than Lefkas’ marina, and has a budget of €47 million! Local opinion is divided, and it is a subject sparking lively debate. The plan includes substantial redevelopment of the sea front in the village of Vliho, and dredging of the south of the bay. It is probably the most ambitious project in the Ionian and will make a huge change to the local area – if it actually goes ahead.
The mayor of Lefkada, Thannasis Kavadas, was quoted as saying “The Marina in Vliho, which with a capacity of 848 berths will be the 3rd largest marina in the country, in addition to the development it will bring to the wider area, is part of the great goal we have set to turn Lefkada into a leading destination and maritime centre tourism in the Ionian. We continue, on the path of major investments, for the progress and well-being of our country and its people, with truth and work for Lefkada”.
Administration buildings and a 12-meter-high control tower are planned for the Vliho seafront, a new fishing harbour, and the south of the bay will be home to a hotel, swimming pool, and villa-style residences, as well as various support services and a boat yard.
Whilst this brave vision is an example of what the future could hold for Lefkada, it would be nice to see some more effort made to retain the character of the bay, with its history of fishing and shipbuilding. The striking modern architecture certainly does not blend into the current character of Vliho. Though it will at least replace the dilapidated hulks and sunken wrecks that persist in the corners and seem to be immovable to the municipality, despite the bay’s protected status!
Ionian marinas: Controversial development
Probably the most controversial development though, is planned for Atherinou Bay on Meganisi. The local municipality have been pushing since 2015 for a 90-berth marina in the bay, which many regard as one of the most beautiful anchorages on the island. As you can imagine, it is hotly debated with passions running high for many long-term visitors and residents. Three floating pontoons are planned to project out into the bay, with a length of 60 – 75m, anchored to a 200m floating walkway along the shore, and associated service buildings.
The Mayor of Meganisi, Pavlos Daglas, said: “A project that will spectacularly upgrade both the region and Meganisi as a whole, while it will be a driver of development as it will upgrade the tourism product of our island, it will create prospects and incentives for new investments in our place and, by extension, new jobs.”
The artist’s impressions show a sleek modern design, with low-lying buildings designed to blend into the bay’s natural landscape.
Atherinou has always been a busy bay, with a beach bar, taverna, shop and quayside. In my opinion, a well-designed small marina would be an advantage to the area and stop the repeated environmental damage that occurs every day from countless anchors. The marina facilities will further help to protect the environment and the neighbouring bays of Kapeli, Abeliekie and Elia will greatly benefit too.
To safeguard the future of the Ionian for everyone progress must be made. Developments like these must be allowed to go ahead. But they must be held to high standards, with the vision being one of protecting the region, not of profit. The area cannot continue with the anticipated volume of boats and prosper without changing.
Facilities are as crucial to the future of yachting as the green technological development of the boats themselves. A vision for a future of electric propulsion, green energy, 100% waste recycling, and a policy of ‘leave no trace’ must be the aim, and new marinas are essential for that ambition.
Tom Fletcher is a hugely experience skipper and instructor at Sail Ionian. For more information, visit the Sail Ionian Website.
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