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2024

I stayed at one of the UK’s most famous castles – and nearly bumped into royalty

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“IS The King home?” I asked, turning to the ranger who had been strolling the sprawling 50,000-acre grounds alongside us.

Despite being at one of the UK’s most famous castles, I hadn’t expected to cross paths with royalty on this trip.

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Balmoral Castle, in Scotland’s Aberdeenshire is one of the Royal Family’s most cherished homes[/caption]
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Balmoral has sprawling 50,000-acre grounds[/caption]
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King Charles was actually at home during Richard’s trip[/caption]

As a huge fan of The Crown, I knew a little about royal protocol and the likelihood of me actually ever meeting a member of the Royal Family (very slim).

So when the ranger confirmed that King Charles was in fact home and that we may even spot him strolling round the lush gardens or by the river, it came as a bit of a surprise.

My wife and I were exploring Balmoral Castle, the countryside estate in Scotland’s Aberdeenshire and one of the Royal Family’s most cherished homes.

It was clear from the moment we stepped foot on the majestic grounds with its perfectly manicured lawns and odes to the monarchy everywhere.

His Majesty stays in a cottage, hidden away from prying eyes while he is here, we were told.

Although that doesn’t mean he is not up for a chat with visitors.

In fact, his protection officers often encourage starstruck visitors to stop him for a conversation, the ranger tells us.

Eyes peeled, we took a long meander along the River Dee, and although there was no sighting of the King, we did manage to find a cafe within the castle grounds selling delicious cream teas.

We felt like royalty ourselves, tucking into scones with lashings of jam and sipping on tea while surrounded by pictures of the monarchy.

We even saw one of Prince Harry posing and smiling alongside his brother and other family members — a rather rare sight these days.

When not scoffing scones, you can get a behind-the-scenes look at royal life inside the ballroom where Queen Elizabeth frequently hosted parties for the Balmoral staff, or at the cricket pitch, where Prince Philip spent many an hour practising his bowling technique with a young Prince William and Harry.

Fans of the royals can even pay their respects to the late Queen’s most-loved companions at Balmoral’s pet cemetary.

Make sure you keep track of where you are venturing, though.

It took us two-and-a-half hours of hiking along countryside paths until we eventually found our car.

And that was thanks a Canadian couple we met who showed us a phone app that tells you exactly where you are and how to reach your desired location.

If only we had known.

Luckily, it didn’t take us quite as long to reach our home for the night, the Balmoral Arms in the beautiful Scottish village of Ballater.

The hotel is dripping in tartan and hostelry, with log fires constantly burning and interesting ales on tap.

As appealing as the ales looked, I had instead chosen to sample the local whiskey at The Ghillies Bar, while my wife took advantage of the huge rolltop tub in our room.

At The Ghillies Bar you can sample the local whiskey
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The Balmoral Arms is located in the beautiful Scottish village of Ballater[/caption]

Then it was time to refill our tummies.

The hotel is home to an excellent restaurant, 1852, named after the year Prince Albert purchased Balmoral for Queen Victoria.

We tucked into starters of smoked salmon and Caesar salad, followed by an amazing 10oz ribeye steak which had been dry-aged in a Himalayan salt chamber and was served with chips, charred baby onions and peppercorn sauce.

After all that grub, a stroll around Ballater was first thing on the agenda the following morning.

The village is littered with boutique shops selling handmade scarfs and a butcher’s selling juicy, local sausages — this one even has a royal warrant to supply meat to Balmoral, so you know they must be good.

If you are up for more of a hiking challenge, the hotel can provide maps for a number of walking routes through the rural countryside.

But no matter where you walk, you are pretty much guaranteed epic views in The Scottish Highlands.

Add that to the epic food and the cosy rooms at Balmoral Arms and you’ve got yourself an epic mini-break, fit for royalty.

GO: BALMORAL

STAYING THERE: Rooms at the Balmoral Arms cost from £130 on a room-only basis.

Breakfast costs an additional £15pp per night. See crerarhotels.com/balmoral-arms.

OUT & ABOUT: Balmoral Castle reopens this October. Entry is from £17.50 per adult. See balmoralcastle.com.

To find more walking routes, see walkhighlands.co.uk.

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The picturesque River Dee[/caption]