You’re Probably Using Pimple Patches Wrong. Here’s How They Work

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Acne patches are a lifesaver. Not only can they hide big, burgeoning blemishes, but pimple patches can also help those pimples heal faster and disappear. Thing is, the science isn’t quite what most people think it is. Do you know how pimple patches work? You might think you do, but we're here to level-set expectations for the next time you get a breakout.

How Do Pimple Patches Work?

First things first: Pimple patches are basically tiny bandages. The hydrocolloid material, a special kind of wound dressing, is exactly what hospitals and clinics use to quarantine a wound on the body. It traps moisture and promotes faster recovery, both by creating a damp environment inside the contained area, and by shielding it from environmental threats on the outside (think dry air, pollution, your dirty fingers). It’s basically an impenetrable barrier—and a tiny one, in the instance of these sticky little acne patches.

With that in mind, you can better understand how to use acne patches. One thing you will notice with most hydrocolloid patches is they become puffy over time. It’s a common misconception that this is because of all the gunk they've extracted from inside your pore. Not true. Instead, that’s more likely to be the steady accumulation of oil from your skin, and the puffiness is a good sign that the patch is working; however, some can become noticeably puffy through their translucent material. When that happens, it might also be a good time to replace the patch or let the area breathe.

But there are some cases where the patch might be absorbing said gunk. Let’s say you put it on a freshly popped pimple; it's not encouraged that you cover up the blemish while it’s actively bleeding out or gushing pus, but once you finally freshen up the blemish site, a pimple patch can help quarantine that micro-wound, and absorb any lingering nastiness while the top scabs over.

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Are Pimple Patches Good at Flattening Acne?

There's another (mis)belief that pimple patches can actively deflate your acne. On the one hand, it can be true that by shielding them and covering them, you can prevent things from escalating too much. But really, that moisture-building bandaging likely isn’t doing much to actively reduce clogged pores; that’s what you need active ingredients for (and it’s where dermatologists step in with steroid injections, in the event of emergency reductions).

That said, to target budding and/or deep cystic acne, many brands are adding active ingredients (namely salicylic acid) to patches via tiny microneedles (which don’t hurt on the skin in the least). These mini needles flood the site with the active ingredient to flush out the pore of any trapped oil and dead skin cells, and to hopefully prevent the pimple from surfacing or needing to be popped. In my experience, these work to varying degrees. I prefer a more aggressive topical active ingredient if I’m just moseying around the house, then I might apply the active-inclusive pimple patch before bed, or if I go out in public.

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Pimple patches come in a sliding scale of sizes, colors, shapes, translucency, and beyond. Some like Starface Pimple Patches and Hello Kitty Pimple Patches come in bold shapes and colors to make a pimple patch more of an accessory. It says, “Yeah, I have a blemish, but I’d rather you look at this bandage on my forehead than a big volcanic pimple.” I respect that. (As you'd imagine, they're hugely popular among Gen Z). Of course others aim to be more discreet like Hero Pimple Patches, PanOxyl Pimple Patches, and Curology Pimple Patches.

Bottom Line: What Do Pimple Patches Do?

 A pimple patch is not going to actively soak up all the gunk inside your pore. But it can do its part to protect, heal, and stabilize the area; and, in some cases, it might deploy ingredients into the skin to help reduce swelling and clogging. Most will work for six to eight hours at a time when applied to clean, dry skin.

Here are the best pimple patches I've tested and firmly stand behind.

Best Pimple Patches

Peace Out Skincare Acne Patches ($20 Total)

I can’t choose a favorite between these two types of salicylic-packed acne dots from Peace Out; sure, you can buy the day and night options separately, but I love the joint offering in Peace Out Acne Day & Night Duo. The day ones are a bit thinner and less glaring when applied. Technically they can be worn under makeup for anyone who prefers—and you might see the faintest recollection of your blemish through the clear patch without any concealer—but I like that the patch on its own creates a neutral middle ground, where the acne is less obvious, and so is the patch itself. The other acne dots are perfect for day or night usage, but in this pairing, they are more relegated to at-home or overnight wear. Both help clear the blemish by pumping salicylic acid into the pores, too. I love the broad coverage of Peace Out’s patches, the sturdiness of the sticker, and ease of application. Money well spent.

COSRX Tri-Size Pimple Patches (72 Total)

Korean-born COSRX is credited with popularizing pimple patches over here in the U.S. So here you have it, and in three sizes at that. The offering is simple: This is pure hydrocolloid—nothing more, nothing less. Advantages are clear: easy application, great endurance, terrific price point. If you want a stock-up of acne patches for the majority of your blemishes (but not the ones that might require active ingredients pumped into them), then here is your ol’ reliable.

ZitSticka Killa Acne Patches (8 Total)

There’s no way around it: These salicylic acid-packed ZitSticka Killa Acne Patches are an investment by comparison, at $3 per pop. Or rather, $3 per non-pop, since they are the absolute best thing to prevent angry, painful, cystic pimples from surfacing. I apply one of these at the first sign of any aggression, and I’d say I’ve got about an 80 percent success rate of preventing those baddies from bursting. That saves my skin about 4 months of recovery, too, since I am prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation whenever my acne surfaces. ZitKilla is worth the money, but you may want to save it for worst-case scenarios. Happy patching.

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