What does Uniqlo’s creative director appointment say about the fashion scene?

The recent appointment of British fashion designer Clare Waight Keller as Uniqlo’s creative director has sent ripples through the fashion industry, igniting discussions about the future direction of the Japanese retail giant. Keller’s appointment comes on the heels of her successful collaboration with the company, which has spanned over a year and involved her designing for Uniqlo’s sub-brand, Uniqlo: C.

In her new role, Keller will lead Uniqlo’s mainline collection, including menswear, starting with the Fall/Winter 2024 Collection. She will also continue designing for Uniqlo: C.

“Her appointment is no surprise,” Mathew Dixon, partner at DHR Global, told Inside Retail. “Claire has worked for brands such as Calvin Klein, Gucci, Givenchy and Chloe – and now this is a fresh new challenge.”

The British designer is recognised for infusing high fashion houses globally with a modern sophisticated aesthetic, garnering industry acclaim throughout her tenure. Keller’s creative contributions, particularly at LVMH’s Givenchy and Richemont’s Chloé, have significantly bolstered her standing in the fashion world.

Dixon speculated that her decision to take on the creative director role at Uniqlo may have been driven by a desire to have a greater impact on everyday people. 

“In a maison, there is constant pressure to reinvent and deliver new collections to maintain the brand’s magic and allure. At Uniqlo, she can build ranges that are elevated but with true democratic appeal,” he said. 

“She has huge resources behind her allowing her to impact how people of all ages and budgets dress, which feels a more modern purpose than just capturing the zeitgeist in a runway show,” he added.

Perfect fit

Yukihiro Katsuta, senior executive officer and head of R&D for Uniqlo, said Keller is one of the few creators in the world able to achieve a high level of balance between creation and merchandising.

“The integrity of Uniqlo’s design principles works well with an elevated taste level,” Dixon said. “They are far less trend-focused than other mass retailers, meaning the luxury taste level translates in a way that would not be possible in a retailer such as H&M or Boohoo.”

He said Uniqlo’s product has been historically quite unisex, and he believes that Keller will bring a freshness that will allow the women’s collection to stand alone and not look like resized fits of the male product.

“I expect Waight-Keller to bring a greater femininity to the womenswear collections, with more flattering silhouettes,” he added.

Before Keller, Uniqlo had established a notable track record of collaborating with designers who have prestigious backgrounds in the luxury fashion industry. Some of the renowned tie-ups include JW Anderson, Jil Sander and Marni. Christophe Lemaire also worked with the ‘Uniqlo U’ sub-brand as creative director in 2016.

“Uniqlo’s unique selling point is based upon basics done incredibly well,” Dixon said. “Hiring a creative director with a luxury pedigree gives them access to those fine details of design and construction that would not normally exist at that price point. It gives Uniqlo a gravitas that transcends price and market level.”

The bigger picture

Concurrent with the appointment of Uniqlo’s creative director, Zara tapped former head designer Stefano Pilatifor for a co-ed capsule collection to launch next month. Earlier this year, Gap named American fashion designer Zac Posen as the creative director of Gap and chief creative officer of Old Navy.

“The likes of Uniqlo, Zara and Gap are rapidly moving away from purely trend-based collections, meaning their garments are increasingly part of consumer’s long-term capsule wardrobe,” Dixon said.

“The market is changing in line with concerns around sustainability and few people want to be defined by their clothes being ‘of the moment’. It means that designers such as Waight-Keller, Zac Posen and Stefano Pilati are defining a new mid-market sector which is more elevated in both styling and price, as the consumer’s attitude to design and value changes.”

For Keller to succeed in the new role, Dixon emphasised the crucial role of Uniqlo’s marketing team in complementing her creative direction. He stressed the necessity for them to develop and execute innovative campaigns that genuinely resonate with their target audience.

“Zara has elevated their art direction to incredible levels over the past few years and has set a new bar in the industry. The styling and marketing around the previous Uniqlo: C ranges were muted and uninspiring, so you expect Waight Keller to bring in stylists to change this,” he concluded.

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