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Сентябрь
2024

Luxembourg’s stunning vistas, brilliant boutiques and fab bars make this tiny country a winner

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Ever considered a weekend away in Luxembourg?

Stunning vistas, brilliant boutiques and fab bars make this tiny country a winner, says writer Janice Hopper

A view of Abbaye de Neumünster, Luxembourg City, shows the valleys and rocky ledges that surround it
The Bock Casemates and the Bridge Stierchen across the River Alzette are definitely worth visiting

GET A GRUND VIEW

Luxembourg City is built around huge valleys and rocky ledges, so the split-level city’s array of walkways, funiculars and elevators are attractions in their own right.

First, catch the free 71m-high Pfaffenthal Elevator to get views from its stunning glass cabin.

The bravest can even stand on the glass-bottomed viewpoint!

Next, check out Chemin de la Corniche, a pathway along the city’s 17th-century ramparts, nicknamed “the most beautiful balcony in Europe” for its sweeping vistas over the characterful Grund district.

Once there, track down the Melusina Mermaid, a vivid-pink statue created by artist Serge Ecker using 3D printing.

CHIC SUPERMARKET EATS

For hearty, local specialities, two restaurants are a must.

The traditional Um Dierfgen serves the national dish, judd mat Gaardebounen – smoked pork neck with broad beans and potatoes, £24 (Umdierfgen.lu).

Or head to the stylish Brasserie du Cercle and tuck into a crispy tarte flambée, topped with crème fraiche, onions and lardons, £14 (Brasserie-du-cercle.lu).

After a cheap eat? You can’t beat European supermarket chain Monoprix’s branch on the elegant Place Guillaume II.

Lounge at pastel-pink tables on its terrace, tucking into a DIY ham and cheese baguette – it’s cafe culture dining at supermarket prices (Monoprix.fr). 

GO UNDERGROUND

Head deep into the rocks at the Bock Casemates, a series of 14 miles of tunnels built into the soaring Bock Promontory.

These eerie maze-like defence tunnels date back to the 17th century and 35,000 civilians sheltered here during WW2. Entry costs £9 per adult (Luxembourg-city.com).

Follow the Museumsmile — we’re talking one mile, seven museums – including modern art at Mudam.

Its permanent collection is 700 pieces strong, but artists are encouraged to “take over” the space, so you never know what you will find.

A pretty pink house in the Grund district of Luxembourg City
Take in the stunning views at the Pfaffenthal Elevator viewpoint
There’s something for the whole family at The National Museum of Natural History

Entry costs £7 per person, free on Wednesdays 6pm-9pm (Mudam.com).

At The National Museum of Natural History families will love learning about space, wildlife and genetics almost as much as riding the giant slide.

Entry costs £4.50 per adult, and free for under-21s, or free for all on Tuesdays 5.30pm-8pm (Mnhn.lu).

FASHION AND FIZZ

For carefully collated fashion, including gorgeous knits, head to Muse By on Grand Rue (Muse-by.com).

Then dip into Devï on Rue Aldringen for holiday dresses and sustainable accessories (Devi-clothing.com).

Reward yourself with a rich hot chocolate, £5, in the duck-egg-blue interiors of Genaveh (Chocolaterie-genaveh.com) or pop a cork at champagne bar Flûte Alors!, where the waiters carry maps to explain where your fizz is from.

A glass of delicate Rosé Marc Hébrart will set you back £12 (Flutealors.lu). 

NOVEL NIGHTCAPS

Kick back at the oldest bar in town, Ennert de Steiler, for a glass of Luxembourg pinot gris, £7.50 (Facebook.com/ennertdesteiler).

For velvet armchairs, walls awash with vibrant artworks and total living-room vibes, drop by Kaale Kaffi, for an Aperol spritz, £10.50.

Meanwhile, centrally located Hotel Vauban has a buzzing outdoor terrace – a perfect spot after a day’s sightseeing – and upstairs you will find simple but smart lodgings.

Double rooms cost from £140 B&B (Hotelvauban.lu). 

BTW

Luxembourg has won the Eurovision Song Contest five times.

All public transport is free. Flights from the UK to Luxembourg cost from £29 return.

Plan your trip at Visitluxembourg.com.