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Hong Kong’s neon glow dims, symbolising the end of an era

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Globalvoices.org 

‘Hong Kong people have a very strong feeling of loss.’

Originally published on Global Voices

A neon sign for Tai Ping Koon, a restaurant in Jordan, Hong Kong. Photo taken by Chloe Sze

Amid the whirlwind of sociopolitical changes that transformed Hong Kong from a liberal city to an authoritarian state after enacting the National Security Law in 2020 and the Article 23 Domestic National Security Law in 2024, people's desire to preserve and understand Hong Kong’s heritage has intensified as many have shifted their priorities; redirecting their political energy in order to preserve the city's heritage and vanishing cultures.

For decades, Hong Kong’s main thoroughfares were drenched in the kaleidoscopic glow of neon signs that vied for onlookers’ attention. This quintessential slice of Hong Kong’s visual landscape was immortalised in films such as the legendary director Wong Kar-wai’s “Chungking Express” (1994) and “Fallen Angels” (1995), as well as foreign movies like “Blade Runner”.

However, many of these neon signs have been taken down in recent years due to tightening safety regulations and shop owners’ preference for cheaper LED alternatives.

To some, the gradual disappearance of Hong Kong’s iconic neon signs, which sprung up in the prosperous postwar era when the territory was still under British control, mirrors the city’s sociopolitical transformations over the last few years. Political loyalty and crackdowns on media and free expression have undermined liberal values and diverse cultures.

A nostalgic sentiment is reflected in the lament over the demolition of major neon signs:

For many, the collective despair about the vanishing vibrancy of the city is best symbolized by the disappearance of neon lights. This phenomenon was captured in the 2022 film, “A Light Never Goes Out”:

The movie centres around the widow of a neon sign craftsman who carries on his trade after his death. In an interview with the New York Times, director Anastasia Tsang articulated why many Hongkongers care so deeply about neon signs being taken down:

Hong Kong people have a very strong feeling of loss. Every day, you’ve got a friend or relative who’s going to emigrate. Every day, you feel like some part of your flesh is being taken from your skeleton.

Following the government’s crackdown on the 2019 pro-democracy protests and the subsequent curtailing of freedoms, the city saw a mass exodus, with hundreds of thousands deciding to leave for countries such as the UK, Canada, Australia, and Taiwan. Coupled with the effect of the pandemic, which left many businesses shuttered and caused a large decline in tourism that still hasn’t managed to rebound fully, it’s no surprise that feelings of loss are so palpable in the city.

Keeping neon alive

In a city like Hong Kong, where historical buildings are routinely bulldozed to make way for high-rises, preserving remnants of the past can be an uphill battle. Nonetheless, many are trying. Take Tetra Neon Exchange, a nonprofit founded in 2020 that ‘rescues’ and collects signs that are about to be removed by the government. Since its founding, the group has received almost 60 signs, according to a Hong Kong Free Press article from April 2023. In addition to collecting retired neon signs, the group also organises exhibitions like “Vital Signs”, which featured a curated collection of iconic signboards brought back to life for public viewing.

The increased appreciation of Hong Kong’s unique urban landscape is also reflected on social media. An Instagram account with the handle @streetsignshk, with over 20,000 followers, is devoted to conserving street signs in Hong Kong by keeping track of exhibitions, removals, and preservation efforts of the city’s street signs — neon or not.

And @singsimeihok, which translates to “urban aesthetics”, posts photos of anything from wet market signs to old elevator button panels, paired with a succinct caption. The account’s description — “Art is everywhere in our city.” — encapsulates its purpose: To slow down and appreciate oft-overlooked parts of the city in a new light.

Use of neon signs in ‘night vibes’ campaign

As the Hong Kong government seeks to lure tourists back to the city, it recalls the attraction of neon lights. Last year, as it launched the “Night Vibes Hong Kong” campaign, which sought to rejuvenate the city’s night-time economy with various events such as night markets, controversial art installations, and music performances, huge temporary neon signs were set up at multiple locations, including at a night market in the Tuen Mun area, where a large recognisable pawn shop sign was placed for visitors to take pictures with:

Tuen Mun Night Vibes set up neon lights for visitors to take photos. Citizens commented that it was too late to preserve after all the demolition.

@Surrealhk, a social media account that creates Photoshopped artworks to comment on the city's current affairs, highlighted the government's contradicting neon-lights policy: 

Written by Chloe Sze