EXCLUSIVE: Willy Chavarria Steps Into Footwear With New Allen Edmonds Collaboration

Willy Chavarria is ready to make his mark on footwear.

Next month, the 2023 CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year will reveal his first signature dress shoe he created in collaboration with American footwear brand Allen Edmonds.

The new style, dubbed “The Jalisco,” is a split-toe derby oxford with a 54mm Cuban heel crafted in classic black box calf leather that aims to embody a classic dress shoe design while pushing the boundaries of formality and gender.

Working closely with the artisans and designers at the Caleres-owned shoe brand over the last four months, Chavarria drew from archival lasts and combined legacy constructions and details to create a boldly original style. Every aspect of the silhouette reflects his eye for detail, from the contoured heel to the gold foil “W.C.” initials on each shoe.  

According to Chavarria, the collaboration came about after evolving his ready-to-wear collection to include more tailoring pieces. “There was a lot of sportswear in the first few years of the brand, but I’ve started to get more into tailoring lately,” Chavarria told FN in an exclusive interview. “And up until now, I just haven’t had the right shoe to compliment the collection. So, I approached Allen Edmonds to help me construct a beautiful, well-crafted shoe, that was also fashion forward and modern.”

The designer noted that he envisions the silhouette as the new “unformal” shoe, that will “transcend seasons, occasions and gender boundaries.”

“We all know a woman looks great in heels, but I’ve always thought a man looks so good in a heel, too,” Chavarria admitted. “That’s why I wanted that as part of the look with my shoe. I feel like it’s very empowering to wear heels. It just does something to your posture. It does something to your presence in a room. Anytime I have an important meeting, I’ll always put a heel on to give myself some height.”

Set to be revealed at his upcoming New York Fashion Week show on September 6, Chavarria teased that he will style the new shoe with a wide range of ready-to-wear that will walk his spring 2025 runway presentation.

“This is the kind of shoe that you can put on with any outfit,” the designer said. “You can wear it with a dirty T-shirt and a dirty pair of jeans. I feel like this is that kind of shoe. So, I’m seeing it styled with athletic wear – like tracksuits — but also with fine tailoring, and then with more casual sportswear and workwear. The concept of the show is there’s going to be a very wide breadth of styles, and I think the shoe will be what dresses all those things up.”

The unlikely tie-up comes after Allen Edmonds provided shoes for Chavarria’s last runway show. For David Law, senior vice president and general manager of Allen Edmonds, he was excited to take his relationship with Chavarria one step further with an official shoe.

“During our first call, he presented his original design. Over the following months, we worked together, perfecting every detail to his precise standards. We are proud to partner with him as he builds out his brand vision,” Law said.

And while the Jalisco may be unlike anything Allen Edmonds typically makes, Law recognizes the significance of the moment. “This collaboration is unlike any other we’ve done,” Law added. “It emerged from mutual admiration and serves as a testament to honoring our legacy of American craftsmanship while pushing the boundaries of modern style through Willy Chavarria’s distinctive design codes.”

Could the partnership become an ongoing collaboration? Chavarria is taking the relationship one step at a time. “Right now, we’re just enjoying this moment,” the designer added. “I feel like everyone on the Willy team is super excited about it, everyone on the Allen Edmonds team is super excited about it. So, I think we’re just having fun with this one. And then we’ll see where it goes.”

Willy Chavarria’s new Jalisco shoe will be available for sale at select Allen Edmonds stores and retailers globally in spring 2025.