The US islands that feel like stepping back in time – with famous mojitos and manatee spotting

THE Sunshine State is famous for attracting millions of thrill-seekers – but rollercoasters are not the only thing Florida has to offer.

Fort Myers is a three-hour drive south of Orlando and offers a totally different kind of amusement.

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Far from the hustle and bustle of crowded, noisy theme parks, this is the gateway to island-hopping off Florida’s stunning south west coast.

Expect the unexpected while exploring these luxurious islands’ pristine beaches and crystal-clear waters.

Spot free-roaming turtles in Sanibel, kayak around Captiva’s Buck Key Mangroves and lunch at the restaurant and bar in Cabbage Key, where singer Jimmy Buffett is said to have written his song Cheeseburger In Paradise.

And paradise it sure is. The irregular-shaped island of Cabbage Key, measuring just over half a mile, is accessible only by boat and it is like stepping back in time as soon as your feet hit the shore.

You are almost guaranteed the pleasure of seeing dolphins and manatees on the five-mile boat trip from Pine Island — and by the end of the trip you will think of them as travelling companions.

Aside from being popular for its unrivalled hospitality, stunning location, and, of course, the Cheeseburger song, the Cabbage Key bar is also famous for its dollar bills, with around $100,000 signed notes covering its walls.

The tradition started in the 1960s when a fisherman taped his dollar to the wall with his name on so he would have money for a drink when he returned.

Having lost my dad at a young age, it meant a lot to write his name on my dollar to pin up in the restaurant.

Now he will join presidents and celebrities remembered on the family-owned island.

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Fort Myers has experienced its share of loss too, following Hurricane Ian in 2022.

The residents’ determination and drive to rebuild stays with you long after you leave.

Secluded picnics

We started our trip at Tarpon Lodge on Pine Island, a picture-perfect setting overlooking the marina.

It is a breathtaking first stop into experiencing “old Florida”.

Breakfast at The Perfect Cup Roastery set us up for a beach clean-up to clear the way for sea turtle nesting season.

From May through to October, turtles emerge from the Gulf of Mexico to lay their eggs on Fort Myers’ shores and it is down to local volunteers to protect them from being disturbed.

After picking litter in the sun, it was time for lunch (and a stiff drink) at Doc Ford’s, known as the home of the island mojito.

While visiting Sanibel, it was clear to see the damage caused to homes and businesses by Hurricane Ian.

A tour of the shell museum revealed further the extent of the devastation.

Visiting this part of the world gives you a chance to speak to residents forced to rebuild their lives. And they did so with such overwhelming positivity.

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On the mainland, downtown Fort Myers has a buzzier atmosphere and there is plenty to see and do, including visiting a 17-acre botanical garden and the homes of inventor Thomas Edison and motor industry pioneer Henry Ford.

Next up was a flying visit to Bradenton for a fascinating tour of The Bishop Museum of Science & Nature before we ticked off our next slice of paradise — the seven-mile long Anna Maria Island.

It is hard to believe anyone has set foot on its beach, a testament to its eco-friendly attitude.

Highlights included unforgettable sunsets while eating dinner at Beach Bistro on Holmes Beach, family friendly Manatee Public Beach and hidden hotspot Bean Point Beach for secluded picnics.

The island also has two rustic “old Florida” fishing piers, Anna Maria City Pier and Rod n’ Reel Pier.

We stayed at the modern hotel complex Mello on the Beach, a short stroll from the seafront.

The suites offer an independent stay, with kitchenette, large bedroom and living area, and a swimming pool to relax in before heading into town.

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Anna Maria has friendly and welcoming independent shops on Pine Avenue, which manages to retain historic charm in a modern setting.

If, like me, you usually end up rushing around looking for gifts before hitting the airport, it is the perfect place to shop, or stop in for a drink at the pier where locals are enjoying the laid-back lifestyle.

It was the slow-paced, gentle nature of this island-hopping trip that gave me pause for thought before I boarded my nine-hour trip back to London.

Seeing the manatees gliding across the Gulf of Mexico, and the playful nature of the dolphins following the crash of the waves against the boats, reminded me to enjoy the simple, care-free moments.

Florida stole my heart and it will steal yours too.