Volcanic scenery, stunning night skies and new friends on tap – Donna Smiley fell head over heels for La Palma

Standing above the clouds and taking in the dramatic rock formations and giant,  other-worldly telescopes, I tell my friend Jeremy – who I met just three days ago – that I think this must be what Mars looks like. 

We are 2,400m above sea level at the Roque de los Muchachos viewpoint in La Palma on the Canary Islands, which gives a breathtaking panoramic view of a giant 1,500m-deep volcanic crater, covered with trees and stunning volcanic rock formations.

As the sun begins to set, our tour guide hands out glasses of red wine to our group of 20 and we all watch in awe as one of the most dramatic sunsets I’ve ever seen descends over the clouds, leaving a clear night sky that’s perfect for stargazing.

This 5 1/2-hour tour costs from £47 per person (Lapalmatransfer.com).

Counting Stars

Driving down the steep, winding road, we pass one of the main attractions on the island, the Observatorio del Roque, a complex of telescopes and observatories and a UNESCO Astronomy Heritage Site, which you can tour in the daytime.

Thirty minutes later, while two powerful telescopes are set up, our group admires the stars before we get the chance to spy the planet Venus and jaw-dropping particles of stardust. It’s easy to see why this island is known as Isla de las Estrellas – island of the stars.

La Palma, one of the eight main islands that make up the Canary Islands, is very different from the others that I’ve visited, with its rugged landscape of volcanoes, forests, beaches and world-renowned observatory.

It’s also one of the least crowded and most unspoiled, and has been declared by UNESCO as a biosphere reserve – a protected area meant for the conservation of plants and animals.

I’ve come here with Friendship Travel, alongside 12 strangers travelling solo. We don’t have to hang out 24/7, but, along with our friendly host Tina, the group meets every day to eat breakfast together, before reuniting in the hotel bar at 7pm for dinner. 

It’s nice that there’s always somebody to chat to – Londoner Jeremy is a real giggle – and as we’re staying all-inclusive at the H10 Taburiente Playa resort, there’s no awkwardness splitting bills or wondering if it’s your round.

The wine that accompanies dinner helps people to relax, too! Listening to the stories of our diverse group, which includes a couple of fellow travellers who are in their 40s (like me), plus many a little older, is fascinating.

Isle see it all

A few of us decide to join The Big Island Tour for a full day’s exploring. At El Time, we get an unbeatable view of the vast valley of Aridane, covered in banana plantations and cut by the deep gorge of Las Angustias. 

The Caldera de Taburiente National Park is also beautiful, and has to be seen to be believed. It’s located in the centre of La Palma and is an 8km-wide crater, reaching depths of up to 1.5km, covered by dense Canarian pine woods.

Looking out at Plaza de Tajuya, you can even see the cones, lava flows and expansive black ash left by the volcanic eruption of Volcán de Cumbre Vieja three years ago. Full-day tours cost from £43 per person and are bookable through the hotel.

One morning, another small group of us make the scenic hour’s walk into the island’s capital of Santa Cruz, located on the east coast and known for its centuries-old architecture, pretty houses, cobbled streets and busy port.

After an amble around, I opt for a spot of alfresco dining at Habana Cafe, where the croquetas de jamón, £7.50, prove tasty and filling (Instagram.com/habanalapalma).

Later, El Cafe De Don Manuel, set in a beautiful courtyard, serves up an excellent cappuccino (Elcafededonmanuel.com), before I hop on the 20-minute bus back to base.

Ticket to ride

We also venture to the west coast to visit Los Llanos, the largest city, which sits on a fertile plain between banana plantations and avocado, almond and fig trees.

After changing buses in Santa Cruz, it’s only a 30-minute drive and costs little more than £2 each way.

Los Llanos has a buzzy atmosphere and we spend the afternoon sipping coffee, people-watching and snapping colourful street art.

My top tip? Try a traditional Barraquito, coffee with Licor 43 at Frida cafe on Calle del Medio. 

On the last day, after a dip in one of the hotel’s pools, I spend the morning reading.

Have I made friends for life? Maybe, in Jeremy. We’ve since met up for dinner and plan to catch up again to discuss future travel plans. 

Photography: Alamy, Getty Images