Beach, Please: Gucci Spring-Summer 2025 Menswear Show

Sabato De Sarno brought a seaside air to Milan on Monday, with the Gucci Spring-Summer 2025 collection. The show took place at the Triennale Milano, a museum devoted to the best of Italian design and De Sarno’s own designs for this Gucci collection were inspired by the best bits of la dolce vita: enjoying sunny summer days where the sea meets the shore, but also coming together with friends in a metropolitan museum.

The collection opened with a nod to that time of year, mid-spring, where transitional wardrobes reign supreme: green bonded leather trench coat, worn over sleek black shorts and a knit, perforated polo, with black leather boots featuring Gucci’s iconic Horsebit. After walking the runway for the invited guests, the models paraded outside, in the park, where erstwhile fashion students could glimpse De Sarno’s creations. Like a museum, this was meant to be accessible to all. 

The looks ebbed and flowed with the ease of a lazy summer afternoon, from casual to formal and from sea to city. Spring suiting was presented in two silhouettes: a single-breasted jacket, with pressed sleeves to create a structured and slim look, with matching trousers outfitted with button tabs for an adjusted fit at the ankle; then, looser, more relaxed double-breasted jackets cut from light, airy poplin. These were, for the most part, rendered in elevated takes on classic colours — rich chocolate browns, luxurious greens, crisp greys — with the exception of one powder blue double-breasted number.

Polos were also offered up in two forms. First, there were those like the one that opened the show that were mesh-like and other, long sleeved ones that were hand knit and covered with a pailette intarsia that one imagines would dance and shimmer in a gentle summer breeze. 

The immediate stand out pieces were the infinity print bowling shirts that De Sarno pointed out were not actually bowling shirts. His featured three pockets, inspired by utilitarian workwear — which was another thread woven throughout the collection with short zip up jackets and embossed leather made to look like corduroy. The shirts were covered with infinity motifs from the coast — surfers, hibiscus flowers, banana flowers, dolphins — and done up with bright pops of colour, in both short and long sleeves. Some featured embroidered flowers and others beaded fringe. 

Even the bonded leather and suede jackets were infused with a seaside air, taking on the colours of sorbet, gelato and granita, decadent and alluringly refreshing. 

If Sabato De Sarno’s first collection felt like a very intentional treatise on his aesthetic — they were, he said, the clothes that he would want to wear — the lightness and airiness of the silhouettes, fabrics and colours felt like he had given himself more freedom to be playful. The bags and footwear reflected this approach, with sumptuously soft, pillow-like padded bags outfitted with magnetic closures and others with detachable pieces. For the most part, De Sarno seemingly prioritized portability, with smaller bags — clutches and cross bodies — outnumbering the larger ones. On foot, models sported everything from angular Horsebit boots and loafers to trail sneakers and playful slip-ons inspired by scuba equipment.

The house’s current campaign declares that “Gucci is a feeling” and looking at the Spring-Summer 2025 collection, that feels more true than ever. It was like a palpable summer vibe washing over guests, like waves on a beach.

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