Taste-Off: The primo pickled peppers — and the bad ones

Peter Piper had it right. Whether it’s by the jar or the peck, pickled peppers add a burst of sunny, salty brightness to everything they touch. Milder than a jalapeño and tamer than a pickle, pickled peppers deliver salt, acid and a dash of heat to salads, sandwiches, pizza and more.

Pickled peppers come in many forms — hot, medium and mild, whole and sliced, pepperoncini, wax peppers and that bright yellow newcomer, banana peppers.

For this taste-off, we hit the condiment aisle and picked up half a peck — well, 5 pounds or so — of jarred peppers, sticking with the two most popular varieties: pepperoncini and banana peppers.

Pepperoncini and their cousins, golden Greek, are sweet peppers with thin flesh. They turn wrinkly and a bit sour when pickled, and they’re typically fairly mild. At 100 to 500 on the Scoville pepper scale, they’re hotter than a bell pepper (0) but much milder than a jalapeno (2,500 to 8,000). (By the way, the number of Ps in the name varies by country — they’re peperoncini in Italy and pepperoncini in the U.S.)

Banana peppers have smoother, thicker flesh, waxy skin and zesty, but mild flavor — 500 on the Scoville scale, if you’re keeping score.

We threw both varieties into this lineup, rating them on flavor, texture and overall appeal. Good peppers — no matter the variety — deliver vibrant vegetable flavor, pleasant texture and a welcome shot of clean brininess.

Here’s the scoop on the pickled peppers worth the pantry space, and the jars to avoid. Nutrition info refers to 1/4 cup or 30 grams.

Giuliano Imported Golden Sliced Peperoncini

These bold, pepper slices are exactly what you want in a forkful of pepperoncini. They’re clean, fresh and crisp. 5 calories, 386 mg sodium. $3.99 for 16 ounces at Smart & Final. (4 stars)

Star Greek Pepperoncini

Robust pepper flavor and good crunch makes these spicy peppers a great choice. They’re salty but deliver a mouthful of pepper deliciousness. 10 calories, 490 mg sodium. $4.99 for 16 ounces at Safeway. (3½ stars)

Mezzetta Mild Banana Pepper Rings

Salty, briny and decidedly mild, these meaty rings are a good pick for those who don’t tolerate spice. 5 calories, 310 mg sodium. $3.99 for 16 ounces at Raley’s. (3 stars)

Jeff’s Garden Sliced Golden Greek Peperoncini

Layers of unexpected flavor notes, thanks to the addition of turmeric and rosemary, make these a tangy alternative to the standard pepperoncini. 5 calories, 390 mg sodium. $4.69 for 12 ounces at Whole Foods. (3 stars)

Jeff’s Garden Sunshine Mix Mild Banana Pepper Rings

These gorgeous, chunky rings have a pleasant, bell pepper-like flavor, but they lack the charming bite of most pickled peppers. 5 calories, 310 mg sodium. $3.60 for 12 ounces at Whole Foods. (2½ stars)

Market Pantry Mild Sliced Banana Peppers

Those who love bell peppers may enjoy these thick slices. They’re nearly sweet, but enjoyable nonetheless. 5 calories, 330 mg sodium. $1.99 for 12 ounces at Target. (2 stars)

Mezzetta Sliced Golden Greek Peperoncini

If heat is what you’re after, these deliver. Sadly, they are far too salty and seriously under-cured, which makes them waxy and tough to chew. 5 calories, 390 mg sodium. $3.99 for 16 ounces. (1½ stars)

365 Organic Sliced Pepperoncini

Funky, muddled brine and chewy texture make these a poor choice. They deliver a pleasant hit of heat, but these would be best used in cooked dishes. 5 calories, 350 mg sodium. $4.99 for 15.5 ounces at Whole Foods. (1 star)

Divina Sliced Pepperoncini

Minimal salt, a gentle tang and heat that builds make these pale slices pleasant in terms of flavor, but the skins are nearly impossible to chew. 5 calories, 200 mg sodium. $5.69 for 15.5 ounces at Raley’s. (1 star)

Krinos Imported Pepperoncini

The only thing this brand gets right is the texture. The peppers have a slightly hot aftertaste, but salt drowns out every other flavor component. 10 calories, 540 mg sodium. $3.49 for 13 ounces at Smart & Final. (No stars)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.