This Unassuming Village Produces Some of the World’s Strongest Mountaineers

Camp 3 was dreamlike and cold, the full moon bathing the tent in an ethereal light and illuminating the elusive summit 1,400 meters above. Four climbers—Alex Txikon from Basque country, Tamara Lunger and Simone Moro from Italy, and Ali Sadpara from Pakistan—shared one goal: the historic first winter ascent of Pakistan’s second-highest mountain, Nanga Parbat (8,125m). Ali was the workhorse on the team, breaking trail, carrying massive loads, and rigging most of the lines, all without supplemental oxygen.

On day 56 of the expedition, the team arrived at Camp 4 (7,100m) at 3:30 p.m. At 6:00 the next morning, they crept from their tent into a pitch-black world, an unforecasted polar jet stream hitting them like a punch to the face. The tiny orbs of light from their headlamps slashed at the darkness as they climbed. Moving faster than the others, Ali stopped five meters from the summit to let his partners catch up. He waited, banging his arms together, shuffling his feet, trying to stay warm. When Alex reached him, the pair fell to their knees, embracing each other. Tamara had turned back, but Simone eventually appeared. Each had fought for their life against the harsh winter elements, battling to keep the horrendous cold and shrieking wind from piercing their skin, and now they were on the summit.

It was February 26, 2016, and it was a historic moment. Alex, Simone, and Ali had done what 34 teams over the last 50 years had failed to do: make the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat. In the following days, all of Pakistan celebrated, draping garlands of flowers around the climbers’ necks. Crowds cheered, calling Ali a national hero. Although they may not have known his name before, they did now—and they knew where he was from.

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