DINING OUT THE RETURN OF SIAM

Siam. Rejoice! O ye loyal followers of Thai cooking. The great Siam is back! Gone from the scene for more than a lamentable two years, Siam Restaurant finally returned in January. Chad and Pam Armradit, proprietors at the two previous locations, promised to reopen in a more attractive place with a more ambitious menu. But the wail was such that many fans had given up hope.At last, there is a Siam in an unintimidating location (a new shopping center on Harry Hines just north of Northwest Highway), with a setting that is indeed attractive (lots of wood, plants, and waitresses in unpretentious native costumes). At press time, the new menu had not materialized, but one was promised soon.The most important thing about the resurrection of Siam, of course, is that one of Dallas’ great restaurants is back-and in top form. The signature dishes that made the original Siam’s reputation are as good as ever: the skewered pork satay conies with peanut-and-curry sauce made from a secret recipe, the s...